From sea to plate: boarding with Menton's last artisanal fishermen

Dawn is almost a ritual.

On the quay of Menton, near the harbour where the coastline leans toward Italy, men and women in rubber boots untangle nets and check the ice. The air smells of sea and citrus; lemon trees stand on the terraces above the marina, and beyond the breakwater, the Mediterranean is pale gold. A small pointu, its paint rubbed by decades of salt, rocks gently as its crew sorts anchovies, small sea bass and the occasional dorade. Conversations are low, seasoned with laughter, technical names of fish, and precise instructions about where the nets were set last night.

Au fil de l'eau

Artisanal fishing in Menton is not a spectacle, it is a living craft. The fishermen use small boats (often called pointus), hand-set nets and line gear, aiming for quality and selectivity rather than volume.

Across the French Riviera, the number of active small-scale fishermen has fallen sharply since the late 20th century. In this context, Menton remains notable because a handful of crews still land their catch daily on the quays, selling directly to locals and chefs.

The catches are seasonal and local: anchovies and sardines in spring, sea bass and sea bream later in the year, and occasional squid or cuttlefish. The presence of Posidonia seagrass meadows off the coast supports juvenile fish, making these nearshore waters valuable for biodiversity and for the artisanal sector.

Racines et filets

Why does this tradition persist? Partly because fishing here is deeply rooted in daily life. Menton was a fishing village long before it became a Belle Époque resort. Families built a culture around the sea that ties fishermen to the table, to local markets, and to festivals—Menton’s lemons are world-famous, and chefs often combine citrus with fresh fish.

Another driver is gastronomy. Since Mirazur, led by chef Mauro Colagreco, rose to international fame in 2019, there is renewed attention on provenance. High-profile restaurants in and around Menton source directly from local boats, which helps sustain small crews financially and promotes traceability.

Economic and regulatory changes also shaped modern choices. European fisheries policies introduced quotas and gear regulations over recent decades. Rising costs—fuel, maintenance and insurance—push some younger fishers toward other jobs, while older captains keep the craft alive with a mix of pride and pragmatism.

Entre marché et assiette

There are contradictions. Tourism brings demand for fresh fish, but it also drives coastal real estate prices and increases pressure on nearshore resources. Some fisheries restrictions aim to protect stocks, but they can be hard to reconcile with small-scale livelihoods.

Yet innovation emerges. Several fishermen now combine direct sales from the quay with deliveries to restaurants and small community-supported arrangements. Local initiatives promote 'sea-to-table' dinners where chefs explain the origin of the fish and simple recipes that highlight freshness rather than heavy sauces.

For visitors and locals who want to act: go early. At the Menton harbor market, a 7 a.m. arrival gives you the best choice and the chance to talk to those who caught the fish. Ask where the fish was caught, how it was hauled, and for a cooking tip. A classic and unbeatable preparation is simply grilled sea bass with a squeeze of Menton lemon and local olive oil, or a thin carpaccio of anchovy with citrus zest and a touch of fleur de sel.

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